Chapter 09: Untelling The Story
Ship Rock. The Totem Pole. Spider Rock. Just because it’s there doesn’t mean we should climb it. We dive into the troubled relationship between climbers and tribes and take apart an inaccurate story the climbing community has been telling itself for decades. Climbers Aaron Mike, Len Necefer and Tara Kerzhner help brush away the chalk to reveal a deeper story.
Image: Isaiah Branch-Boyle.
Bit Of Gold Bonus: Fricking Stanley
Sean “Stanley” Leary never got a lot of media attention, but he was a driving force in the progression of the sport and beloved by the climbing community. He held numerous speed records in Yosemite, pioneered new routes on Baffin Island and was on the leading edge of wingsuit flying. Alex shares some of his memories of climbing with Stanley.
Image: Cedar Wright
Chapter 08: Give And Take
After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many climbers hoped he would fail. We take a peek into the early days of the Access Fund and Leici Hendrix adds perspective on the importance of local climbing organizations.
Image: Armando Menocal Collection
Chapter 07: This Place Will Change Climbing
As climbing gyms become a global crag of sorts, how do we welcome people in? Do climbing gyms become a country club or the mechanism for broadening our community and unleashing a wave of new talent into climbing? Memphis Rox has redrawn the model for what a climbing gym can be. Designed to be more than just a state of the art climbing gym, it is a not-for-profit community center located in the heart of Memphis, TN. Photographer Malik Martin and industry veteran Jon Hawk bring us ideas on the future of our sport with a little help from Conrad Anker.
Image: Malik Martin
Bit Of Gold Bonus: Pizza Party
Beth Rodden inspired a generation of climbers with her incredible free ascents of El Cap and hard trad climbs. Her leap into that realm began at an impromptu pizza party hosted by Lynn Hill. When a living legend asks you to ditch university and come to Madagascar, the only answer is “Yes.”
Image: Jeremiah Watt
Chapter 06: When Climbing Takes Flight
By the mid 2000’s climbing was growing, but the ephemeral first ascents were harder to find. Enter BASE jumping. The leaders of our sport stepped to the edge and jumped into the golden age of human flight. With it, a whole new element of risk arrived in climbing. We talk with Randy Leavitt, Chris McNamara and Steph Davis, who helped pioneer the movement.
Image: Ian Mitchard
Chapter 05: A Magician Needs A Stage
El Cap. Free. In a day. Putting those words on your resume puts you in the league of legends. When Lynn Hill freed the nose, she redefined what’s athletically possible in climbing. Emily Harrington and Beth Rodden add their perspective on the momentous achievement.
Image: Heinz Zak
Bit Of Gold Bonus: He Doesn’t Know Beans
Tired of trudging up the steep mountain peaks and without a partner, John Gill hitched a ride with a milkman to solo the east face of Longs Peak.
Chapter 04: The Invisible Cord
A physical and intellectual anomaly, John Gill’s vision for climbing would ultimately drive the sport’s athletic progression and help bring it to a larger audience. Also in this chapter, Alex and Nina Williams break down their shared respect for Bishop’s world class highballs.
Bit Of Gold Bonus: Crack Wars
In the 1980’s, a Wells Fargo parking garage in the San Fernando Valley became a clandestine climbing laboratory and pre-runner to climbing gyms. And here, the legendary Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro invented a climbing move that’s withstood the test of time.
Chapter 03: This Is How You Spell Climbing
Climbing’s first bonafide phenom, Chris Sharma ushered in a new chapter of athleticism.
Image: Boone Speed
Chapter 02: Tap-Tap-Twist
Behind each of the 200,000-plus climbing routes in the US, there is a person. Joanne Urioste, a prolific first ascensionist, pioneered some of the most popular routes and helped bring climbing into the future.
Image: Joanne Urioste collection
Chapter 01: More Bird Than Larry Bird
Peter Croft and Alex talk about their climbing heroes and pushing the mentality of possible. And how 1940’s bebop jazz relates to Yosemite’s famed Astroman.
Image: Phil Bard
Introducing Climbing Gold
Athletes. Risk takers. Dirtbags. Pioneers. Community builders. Outsiders. Leaders. Join us to hear the voices and stories of climbing’s past and future.